Everything HD-FXR

Removal of the inner primary and inspection

After getting the compensating sprocket, clutch and chain out of the way the removal of the inner primary is pretty straight forward.  There are 10 bolts and two oil lines holding the inner primary to the engine and transmission.  Removal of the starter motor is required since it passes through a gusset on the transmission flange before bolting into the inner primary casting.  Remove the two outer bolts and then the two inner bolts at the motor end.  The two bolts at the clutch end should be safety wired to special stop that are recessed into the casting.  This wire has to be removed then the bolts can be removed.

The remaing bolts have to be removed from the other side of the bike.  Remove the starter then lay down and look underneath the bike.  You’ see two bolts near the clutch basket area about 6 inches apart.  Remove them.  Now pull enough oil line that you can get access to the clamps and loosen then remove the oil lines.  Off it comes.

By the way, transmission sprocket does not appear to be loose…

What I found

As already mentioned in a previous post.  The top inner primary casting bolt ear was cracked and broken when I got the bike.  Here are the additional findings in term of condition:

1. The sprocket shaft extension is stuck on the motor mainshaft.  Already broke an el-cheapo gear puller trying to remove it.  Not surprising as hard as the compensating bolt was to remove.  Also there is a visible wear area on each spline.  Needs to be replaced.  Must come off.  I’ve been spraying penetrating oil on it pretty steady.  I’ll give it some time to act before trying another gear puller. UPDATE: got the damned thing off.  Had to use HD tool BFH (bigger *^&^%@ hammer) and a pry bar but it came!  Main shaft splines look fine on removal.  Replace it.
2. The compensating sprocket and cam show intense wear as can be seen in the images below.  (I wonder if that could cause a vibration when cruising – bet it could.)  The transmission sprocket is somewhat worn and will be replaced.  Stock 22 tooth sprocket.  I think I’ll add a tooth or two for lower rpm at cruising speeds.  Replace it (if you can get it off that is – special tool required.)
3. Oh yeah.  The sealed transmission shaft bearing that should be a tight press fit into the inner primary casting can be pulled out with one finger (another source of potential vibration.)  Also, somebody put some sort of seal on the shaft.  According to the diagrams I have there should not be a seal on the transmission shaft bearing since it fills the entire casting and is sealed anyway.  Seems to me that this would be a good way to misalign the inner primary and could be how the aforementioned inner primary top ear got broken.  Trying to torque it down when misaligned.
4. On removal of the alternator rotor three magnets stayed behind on the stator.  Glad I decided to have a look while it was apart.  Anybody ever reattach these babies with success?  I’d think it should be possible with some of the adhesives that are around these days.  I am presuming that they have been this way for a while and centrifugal force plus magnetic force was holding them in place.  Prying against the center of the heavy cover shouldn’t have dislocated them I don’t think (15/32 inch thick steel.)  Whatever,  new rotor – not a cheap part either.

Click on any of the images in the gallery below for a larger slideshow style presentation.

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